Saturday, July 4, 2009

Grahamstown Scene

So many resolves to blog, how quickly they fade away when a nice warm sleeping bag is waiting and you have to get up early the next morning.

I have just been thinking about so many things, it's hard to know the small ones to pick out and "write home" about.

Like I said before, working with Habitat in Stellenbosch was nothing like I expected it to be. I experienced a form of culture shock, but not the one I was anticipating. Without wanting to leave a really negative impression of my time there, I'll just tell you, let's talk when I get back.
We didn't do much in Stellenbosch outside of the build, so there's not much else to say!

We made it here to Grahamstown, after about 2 days worth of driving. Fortunately, the driving was broken into two chunks, and the long one was along the beautiful Garden Route. We stopped over for a few nights in Plettenberg Bay, a (in my estimation) somewhat of a yuppyish resort town, but absolutely beautiful seaside destination! We stayed at a cute little hostel right off of the downtown strip. There were all kinds of cafes and such, and we were about a 15 minute walk away from the beach. Though it was not exactly a stroll- a fairly steep hill separated the beach and the town.

The beach had actual white sand(!) (a novelty for this Alaskan), and was surrounded by small rocky cliffs. We went and laid out on some rocks, in a little cove, to eat and work on papers and things. It was a pleasant mixture of warm wind and sunshine, and even though the locals were bundled up, to us, it felt like summer!

We had some really interesting classes in Plettenberg- discussing the ideas of ancestors and faith, as well as healing. It has, interestingly, gotten me to thinking about things back home, the situations and injustices there. I would write more, but I am not really sure what I am talking about yet, either.
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After another drive, this one not as pretty, but in which we discovered that gas stations have espresso machines and the best candy ever.

Grahamstown is a University town, and we are in the middle of a HUGE and wonderfully vibrant arts festival. You could go to something every hour of the day and never see it all! Our prof took us on a whirlwind tour of the area when we arrived last night. She decided to walk us down the little sidewalks where the merchants have their wares out, and I thought I was either going to get sucked into a swirl of people and end up living here or else just get trampled. It's really fun, but, when you are expecting an evening stroll through the quiet streets, and then get thrown into the middle of a market that makes you think of the streets of India, it's a little overwhelming. We had to recoup next to a cathedral, where we watched a group of guys our age do some drumming and dancing in the traditional style. There are also little kids dressed up as mimes that line the streets, and if you throw a few rand in their bowls, they will dance. I wasn't sure how to feel about it, but most of them seem to be having fun with it, so I am keeping small change in my front pocket for when I walk around.

Last night, we went to our first play, called The Return. It was quite an experience attending it as an American, because the premise revolves around a former political resistance fighter fleeing in exile to America, marrying and African-American woman, and then returning to visit his parents in their township home. I think the most enjoyable part for me was sitting in front of some older women, probably local. Much of the play was in Xhosa, with translations. But I felt like I had my own interpreters behind me, as the chorus of laughter and sighs and clicks and admonitions rose and fell with the emotions of the plot. Best of all were the laughs and cheers when the Mama told her son and husband off, and the murmurs of agreement when she declares her son's wife too skinny. I heard one woman whisper to the other, "Real African women have curves. "

We have a play or film or two a day to see for the next few days, and some vendors and local fare to explore.

Off for now, but sending all my love.

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